Visit Florida Online Visitor and Tourist Information

A journey along US 1 from the Georgia / Florida border to Key West
COMPILED BY THE Federal Writers' Project of the Works Progress Administration. - 1938

Ga. Line Jacksonville New Smyrna Fort Pierce West
Palm Beach Miami Key West, 568 m. US 1, US 1-Alt., and State 4. Florida East Coast Ry. between Ga. Line and Florida City and Atlantic Coast Line R.R. between Ga. Line and Miami parallel route.
Hard surfaced; few curves. Cattle a hazard, especially at night. Dangerous railroad crossings near Jacksonville.
Accommodations of all kinds, chiefly in cities.

Between the St. Mary's River and Jacksonville US 1 passes over the eastern edge of the Trail Ridge, the watershed of the peninsula, for approximately eight miles. From here the Ridge section slopes into the flat woods area of northeast Florida. Few people live in this section of the State, and except in the three small towns, few houses are seen along the route. There are dense hammock lands along the river at the northern end of the route, and evergreen pinelands border the highway.

From the white concrete bridge spanning the ST. MARY'S RIVER, an excellent view is afforded of the deep narrow stream and its wooded banks. All types of bay vegetation grow along the water's edge, the sweet and black gum, magnolia, swamp holly, poplar, several varieties of oak, elm, ash, willow, cedar, and some slash pine. Bamboo vine, yellow jessamine, Virginia creeper, and wild grape enmesh the trees and cling to some of the shrubs and underbrush. Here mistletoe is found clinging to the black gum, and palmettos grow in profusion. Prickly ash, elbow, and hurrah bushes are common. Flood tides have cut deeply into the high banks of the river and many of the trees droop precariously over the water.

Usually the St. Mary's is a peaceful little stream exhibiting temperament only in swirls and eddies as it twists and turns through the semitropical forest; but after a period of rains the river becomes a raging torrent lashing at the trees and shrubs along its banks. During these times the normal depth of eight ft. at the bridge increases to 1 8 or 20 ft.

The drab coffee-colored water was formerly in demand by the masters of four-riggers and tramp steamers docking at Fernandina, because of the length of time it retained its flavor when placed in casks. Regular trips up the river were made by ship chandlers to obtain the water, which sold for one cent per gallon. Several hundred feet from the bridge a HUGE ARCHWAY has been erected by the Jacksonville Motor Club. The name "Florida" appears at the apex cast in iron. Just S. of the archway (R) is a small granite MONUMENT commemorating Robert E. Lee; the bronze plaque states that this highway, here called the Dixie, is dedicated to his memory.

CRYSTAL SPRINGS, 0.1 m. (L), a popular picnic and camping ground, is named for a small sulphur spring. The same telltale white film and odor indicating the presence of this mineral, are found at many Florida springs. A large tourist camp occupies nearby grounds. A PRODUCE INSPECTION STATION is beside the highway; all produce entering the State must pass inspection.

In places along the route clay is seen in the otherwise sandy loam. Dense growths of oak, gum, bay, and hickory, with the usual lesser types of hammock vegetation, shade the road. Here and there are pine thickets and cypress ponds. The undergrowth of the drier regions consists of saw palmetto, gall-berry, and wire grass. At the forest's edge are many native grasses and herbs. Wild flowers grow profusely in all seasons of the year. A dense section of flat pinelands is passed, in which many of the trees have been "streaked" for the extraction of turpentine. Several large stills are in the vicinity, though none of them is seen from the highway.

HILLIARD, 7 m. (66 alt., 312 pop.), is a village serving a considerable rural area in which the livelihoods of the inhabitants are derived chiefly from the production of naval stores, from truck farming, and from timber cutting. The town has been a trading post since the early 1800's but there was little growth until the present highway was built.

The construction of a large mill here in 1881 by the Hilliard and Bailey Lumber Co. was also of importance. The place was named for one of the firm's members. At that time the Savannah, Florida & Western R.R. connected the place with Kings Ferry, where the timber, cotton, and other products of the area were snipped N. by boat.

Consisting mainly of a group of filling stations, a few homes, and stores, Hilliard caters to the thousands of tourists who pass through here annually. Since the repeal of prohibition several merchants in the town have profited by the sale of alcoholic beverages, Milliard being the nearest village on this heavily traveled highway to Georgia which is legally a dry State.

The King's Highway, once a post road between New Smyrna and Savannah, Ga., passed near here; between this point and Jacksonville US 1 follows the old route. Except for an occasional filling station, few signs of habitation are seen S. of the town, the entire region being a monotonous stretch of flat woods. Even flat woods, however, have their charm, for the pines are richly colored in deep green and dark brown, and the moist coolness of these trees enriches the air with a pleasant fragrance. Had Caroline Miller lived here, the setting for Lamb in His Bosom would have required little change.

GALLAHAN, 18 m. (20 alt., 637 pop.), a compact rural town, derives its revenue from the chicken farms and sawmills nearby. Truck farming is the major industry of the back country. Settled early in the 19th century by traders and farmers from southern Georgia, Callahan's growth is restricted by its nearness to Jacksonville, though the latter city provides a ready market for the former's produce. Gallahan is one of the two incorporated municipalities in Nassau Go. The town shows an urban aspect, having modern homes, stores, and hotels.

Pine thickets prevail S. of Callahan but scrub oak and bay vegetation are occasionally seen. White enameled wire or picket fences have been erected along the highway at the edges of the many small brooks and streams to safeguard motorists.

At 20.5 m. (R) is a large outdoor swimming pool drawing the patronage of Callahan residents.

Much of this land is under State forest service protection and occasional watchtowers are visible from the highway. For nearly 15 miles the route is bordered by tall broom grass, which is used by the natives in making crude brooms. Commercially this type of broom grass is used as a filler in regular brooms, and two factories in Jacksonville buy thousands of pounds of it annually.

DINSMORE, 25.5 m. (26 alt., 178 pop.), is the popular dairying center for Jacksonville. Large pastures with dairy herds are seen N. and S. of the town. Massive oaks and magnolias shade the highway, softening the prosaic appearance of the scattered homes, stores, and gasoline service stations. Several roadside inns specialize in preparing chicken dinners.

The number and frequency of houses and truck farms become greater as Jacksonville is approached.

JACKSONVILLE, 37.9 m. (26 alt., 129,549 pop.), largest city in the State (see FLA. GUIDE).

Railroad Station. Atlantic Coast Line R.R., Seaboard Air Line Ry., Southern Ry., Florida East Coast Ry., Union Terminal, 1000 W. Bay St. Points of Interest. Naval Stores Yard, Municipal Docks, Cotton Compress, Municipal Power Plant, Hemming Park, Confederate Park, Memorial Park, Municipal Zoo, and others.

Caution. Six railroad tracks cross US 1 a block within the city limits (no watchman or signal lights).

The northern part of this section of US 1 traverses much unimproved pine land, interrupted by occasional marshes and cypress hammocks; the cabbage palm abounds in the regions around rivers and creeks where the undergrowth is sometimes dense and impenetrable, suggesting the more luxuriant tropical jungles of the section farther S. Below the imaginary frost line at Daytona, the tall feathery Australian pine is frequently used for windbreaks and hedges, and for roadside planting.

US 1 swings SE. from Jacksonville to St. Augustine on the coast; below that point it follows the coast line of the mainland though seldom in sight of the ocean because of the barrier reefs and sandbars. Florida East Coast and Flagler are almost synonymous names. Henry M. Flagler was one of John D. Rockefeller's closest business associates in the Standard Oil business for more than 40 years; about 1883 he became interested in Florida as a potential resort area and shortly afterward bought the little railroad connecting Jacksonville and St. Augustine. In 1886 he built the Ponce de Leon Hotel in St. Augustine. Gradually buying up little logging railroads and extending his lines under the name of the Florida East Coast Railway, he reached Palm Beach in 1892, Miami in 1896 and Key West in 1912, establishing palatial hotels along the coast at intervals.

Development of the area was slow, however. Palm Beach attained a kind of aristocratic prestige after a time but rail service to the south was so slow that only those with plenty of time to spare thought of going down the coast for recreation. Even when the World War began the population of Miami was only about 6,000 and, except for a few wealthy sportsmen, winter visitors were chiefly elderly people who were trying to escape from the cold of the north. Miami Beach was a sandspit reached by motorboat; the few bathers undressed behind the half open walls of a little deserted shack or on the open beach.

The World War industrial boom and the difficulties in the way of foreign travel after the war started the tourist flow to south Florida; the discovery of vitamins and the place of fruit and vegetables in the year-round diet stimulated the agricultural exploitation of the southern section for winter fruit and vegetable growing. Then someone discovered the new Eldorado the value of Florida real estate and the new gold rush was on, with Miami as the shining goal; people poured in by train, steamer, and automobile, on muleback and on foot. Fortunes were made and lost, but the State gained 50 percent in population between 1920 and 1930.

From the business section of Jacksonville, US 1 crosses the St. John's River on the municipally owned toll bridge, and continues through the South Jacksonville suburban section, with tourist camps strung out along the roadside.

At 8 m. (R) are the BOWDEN FREIGHT YARDS OF THE F.E.C. R.R. Fifty miles of tracks at this point, used for the storage, the transfer, and the icing of freight shipments, will hold over 2,000 cars. BAYARD, 19.5 m. (25 alt., 225 pop.), is a small settlement at the junction of US 1 and the old St. Augustine road (formerly US1).

Between Bayard and St. Augustine the highway closely parallels the F.E.C. R.R. All section houses are painted bright yellow with green trim.

In the spring the marshes beside the highway here are blue with iris, a plant considered sacred by the Indians, who also used the roots medicinally. On high ground beside the road grows the vine of the passionflower, so called by Spanish missionaries because to them the bloom symbolized the passion of Christ. In the center of the blossom is a cross; the stigmas, they said, represented the nails, the anthers the wounds and the rays of the corona the crown of thorns. This native flower is commonly called the maypop; its succulent, edible fruit grows to the size of a hen's egg and is in some cases highly perfumed. At 40.8 m. (R), at the city limits, are the F.E.G. R.R. SHOPS AND ROUND HOUSES. Opposite (L) is the ST. AUGUSTINE GOLF LINKS, an 18-hole course at which, for years, Johnny Farrell, has been the professional during the winter months.

ST. AUGUSTINE, 41.2 m. (7 alt., 12,111 pop.), oldest city in United States (see FLA. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Fort Marion, City Gates, Old Spanish Treasury, Plaza and Old Slave Market, Museum of Natural History, old houses, and others. Ponce de Leon landed in this vicinity in 1513, and a permanent settlement was made by Menendez in 1565. Many present-day citizens of St. Augustine are descended from early Spanish settlers, and from Minorcans who came over during the English period. Hotels and buildings have various types of architecture, including Spanish, Moorish, and American Colonial. Many of the old streets are very narrow, Treasury Street being only 7 ft. wide. Prior to 1910, St. Augustine was the leading resort of Florida; today the city still derives its principal revenue from the tourist trade, though Florida East Coast Railway pay rolls and the fishing and shrimping industry also help to support the community. An effort is being made to restore the old city to its appearance in the early Spanish period. Right from the Plaza on King St., passing the Ponce de Leon Hotel, Flagler's first hotel venture, and crossing the San Sebastian River Bridge; three blocks W. of the river, L. on US 1. At 42.2 m. is a sharp turn (L), from which the highway swings southward through pine flat woods and scrub palmetto land, with a slight rise when it crosses Moultrie Creek.

MOULTRIE, 47.2 m. (500 pop.), was named for John Moultrie, Lieutenant Governor of Florida during the English period, who built a large stone mansion on his plantation, Belle Vista, near here. In 1784, with many other British settlers, he left Florida and moved to the Bahamas.

Right from Moultrie on a dirt road, the Upper Moultrie Road, through a dense and confusing pine woods with many trails. (Trip should not be made without a guide.) The SITE OF FORT PEYTON is at 1.5 m. A marker (L), off the trail 0.8 m., indicates the spot where Osceola, the great Seminole leader, was captured. Approaching Fort Peyton under a flag of truce in October 1837, Osceola and his warriors were captured by General Jesup who was reprimanded for violating the truce but he defended himself by pointing out that Osceola had already broken a treaty. It is said that Osceola, perceiving that he was trapped, folded his arms scornfully and remained mute. In company with Coacoochee he was imprisoned in Fort Marion and later taken to Fort Moultrie at Charleston, S.G., where he died.

Although nothing remains of the old wooden fort and blockhouse, erected in 1836, a marker has been placed on the site. William Tecumseh Sherman of Civil War fame was stationed here as a lieutenant during the last days of the Seminole War.

South of Moultrie the highway continues through an almost uninhabited district of pine flat woods.

BUNNELL, 72.7 m. (23 alt., 671 pop.), is a small settlement in the heart of the Flagler County potato-growing area. The chief industry of the town is the canning of potatoes too small for ordinary shipment. A more unusual industry, however, is the exporting of palmetto buds; more than 350,000 of these are shipped annually to churches throughout the Nation to be used as Easter decorations. Left from Bunnell on State 72 is FLAGLER BEACH, 8 m., a small but popular bathing and fishing resort.

KORONA, 78.2 m. (31 alt., 150 pop.), is a farm settlement established in 1912 by a number of Polish families. The 56 families still use their native language and retain many Old World customs. At Korona is a junction with the old Dixie Highway (US 1-Alt.). The route follows the old Dixie Highway, which branches L. at Korona and R. at a fork at 80.3 m.

At 85.2 m. are the RUINS OF ANACAPE (TISSIMI) MISSION, approximately 50 yards L. of the highway and almost hidden from view in an undergrowth of weeds and vines. This mission was reputedly built by Franciscan friars about 1655, as one in a chain of 44 missions. It was destroyed by the English in 1706, but later rebuilt and used as a sugar mill during the British occupation of Florida (1763-83). At 86 m. is the junction with a shell road.

Right on this road are the NATIONAL GARDENS, 3.5 m., with a 280-acre peat deposit of superior grade. The facilities of this small farm project include a nursery and a coquina quarry, the products from which are used in development of the enterprise.

A turn of the highway (R) reveals wide stretches of salt marsh. At 86.1 m. is TOMOKA RIVER, named for the Indians who formerly occupied this territory. Alligators sun on the banks of the stream, while cranes and pelicans are seen occasionally. Black bass, perch, and bream are caught in large numbers.

At 88.2 m. are INDIAN BURIAL MOUNDS, from which the Smithsonian Institution has excavated a number of skulls and other bones. South of this point the highway is continuously arched with intermingling branches of trees that grow on both sides of the road. The Halifax River (L) is occasionally seen through the trees.

ORMOND, 92 m. (6 alt., 1,517 pop.), is a quiet, conservative city with limited accommodations. The well-kept lawns and gardens of its estates and homes are the pride of the winter residents. The town was established in 1 873 by the Corbin Lock Co. of New Britain, Conn., as a resort for employees threatened with tuberculosis. Originally called New Britain, the town was renamed in 1880 in memory of Capt. James Ormond, a local plantation owner who had been killed by a runaway slave.

The ORMOND TROPICAL GARDENS (open daily, adm. 25f), off Division St., W. on Granada Ave., a privately owned 116-acre tract, contain more than a quarter of a million tropical and subtropical plants. Left from Ormond, across a long, wooden bridge spanning the Halifax River, is ORMOND BEACH, 0.4 m., resort that was the winter home of the late John D. Rockefeller. The oil magnate's estate, THE CASEMENTS, (R) at the end of the bridge, is small, with a house notably unpretentious. Guards formerly stood at all entrances and gardeners were busy all day long on the landscaped grounds.

Opposite The Casements is HOTEL ORMOND (open Dec -March), a rambling wooden structure painted bright yellow and green, after the fashion of all F.E.C. Ry. buildings. The building of the hotel was begun in 1 875 by John Anderson and Joseph Price, pioneers in the beach development; it was later sold to Henry M. Flagler, who enlarged the structure to its present size.

A tennis tournament, to which America's leading amateurs are invited, is held annually upon the four fine courts of the hotel.

Adjacent to the hotel are the ORMOND BEACH GOLF LINKS, John D. Rockefeller's favorite course, where he appeared daily to play a round of golf or to dispense dimes.

In keeping with the usual charges that prevail at Ormond Beach, the fees for the course have been set at $2.50 per day, with "slight" advances during the tournaments that are held here each winter and attended by America's leading golfers.

In front of the hotel and paralleling the river runs the JOHN ANDERSON HIGHWAY, a winding, wooded roadway that affords fine views of the Halifax. Many of the older estates of the city are here.

East of the Ocean Shore Blvd. at Granada Ave. is the HOTEL COQUINA, a large, expensive hostelry built in modified Spanish style, its walls covered with coquina. It is an imposing building on the very edge of the sea. The two sections of the hotel are connected by an arched bridgeway, under which cars pass to one of the hotel entrances.

A ramp leads from the end of Granada Ave., the main street of Ormond Beach, to the hard-packed sands (R) over which at low tide motorists can drive to DAYTONA BEACH, 5 m. A sign advises against driving N. because of the soft sand generally encountered between this point and Flagler Beach. At Ormond the old Dixie Highway (US 1-Alt.) runs straight ahead, following the river; the newer and wider roadway, the new Dixie Highway, is reached by turning R. from the town center two blocks and L. on Ridgewood Ave. The routes unite in Daytona Beach.

On the alternate route is HOLLY HILL, 94.9 m. (7 alt., 1,146 pop.), a suburb of Daytona Beach; it was so named because of the abundance of holly that formerly grew here. The town site is a part of the old Turnbull land grant.

Right on llth St., across the railroad tracks, to the HOLLY HILL JUNGLE GARDENS (open daily, adm. 25$, 1 m., which reputedly contain the largest planting of Easter lilies in North America. There are seven solid acres of magnificent blooms, producing annually 45,000 bulbs.

DAYTONA BEACH, 97.7 m. (7 alt., 16,598 pop.), year-round resort city (see FLA. GUIDE).

Airport. Sholtz Field, 2.5 m. W. of city on US 92, Fla. 21 ; Eastern and National Air Lines.

Points of Interest. Speed Course, Casino Burgoyne Civic Center, International Temple of Speed, Bethune-Cookman College for Negroes, Burgoyne Home, and City Island.

Daytona Beach, successful as both a summer and winter resort, was originally called Daytona for Mathias Day of Ohio, who founded the city in 1871. It first attracted Nation-wide attention by automobile speed tests on the beach in the early years of the 20th century. The city is almost entirely dependent upon its tourist trade, though the cultivation of bulbs and citrus groves in the environs also supplies some income.

Southward along the east coast grows the coontie or comptie plant. The roots of the plant provide sago starch from which the Seminoles and the white pioneers made bread when cornmeal was not available. Flour is made by pounding the root in water. A fine white sediment settles in the bottom of the bowl; and the water and the roots are removed. The sediment, dried, is the desired flour. The Indians regarded the coontie as sacred to the Great Spirit, and used it during the feast at their annual Green Corn Dance.

PORT ORANGE, 103.1 m. (12 alt., 678 pop.), organized in 1861, was originally included in the Turnbull land grant. In the early part of the 1 9th century the fertile soil of this section produced sugarcane and indigo, which were in great demand in the markets of Europe. During the Seminole War the pioneers in this area were forced to abandon their homes and flee.

Although the citrus industry, to which the town owes its name, is still of some consequence to the community, it has been superseded in recent years by the shrimping industry and the cultivation of oyster beds that lie offshore in the broad expanse of the Halifax River. There is exceptionally fine fishing here, both from the old bridge that crosses the river and from boats that can be rented at the wharves.

During the Seminole War the Battle of Dunlawton was fought along the river front of Port Orange. The defenders, refugees from the neighboring plantations, under General Putnam, were forced to withdraw from the vicinity, and the Indians under King Philip destoyed the old sugar mill and nearby settlements.

Right from Port Orange on Herbert St., following markers to the ruins of the old DUNLAWTON SUGAR MILL (open 6 a.m.-rd p.m., adm. 25), the building of which was reputedly begun during English occupation; it was later destroyed, rebuilt, and improved many times. It is known to have been used as late as 1880, and is one of the largest coquina ruins in the district. Two tall chimneys rise above the trees, but the walls of the once important mill are now overrun with vines. Most of the machinery remains in place, coated with rust, but imposing. During the Civil War Edward Archibald McDonald, who established the settlement, transported water from the Halifax River and used the kettles of the mill to make salt for the Confederate forces.

At 104.1 m. is ALLENDALE, a small residential village strung out along the highway and the river; it has an inn and the usual assortment of gas stations and tourist homes.

At 104.6 m. is Ross BAY, an arm of the Halifax River popular as a fishing place (boats for hire). In season the marshlands and mangrove swamps provide excellent duck, marsh hen, and reedbird hunting.

At 106.2 m. (R), S. of Spruce Creek Bridge, is TURNBULL CASTLE, a large frame house overshadowed by tall pines, cedars, and oaks. Its foundations are believed to have been used for the home of Dr. Andrew Turnbull, since it is known that this plantation at one time belonged to the developer of New Smyrna.

The highway at this point turns E. and is built upon shell-marl land, as is evidenced by the exposure of oyster shells along the shoulders of the road, from which have grown the gnarled old trees that shade the highway on the outskirts of New Smyrna.

NEW SMYRNA, 112.7 m. (10 alt., 4,149 pop.), a little town built upon the ruins of one of Florida's oldest settlements, stretches for 4 miles along the W. bank of the North Indian River. Enormous liveoaks, magnolias, and bay trees shade the residential and business houses, mainly of post-Victorian frame construction. Most of the business district lies near the highway, and the better residential section along the winding river, but a few homes have been built W. of US 1 .

The first known settlement on the site of New Smyrna was the Indian village of Caparaca. The Spanish missionaries were here in 1696 when the Mission of Aticuimi was founded, a century before those of California. In 1767 Dr. Andrew Turnbull brought 1,500 colonists to Florida. About 1,200 were from the Island of Minorca, S. of Spain; the others were Italians and Greeks. The British Government furnished a sloop of war and 4,500 pounds sterling bounty to promote the settlement. Lord Grenville, English Secretary of State, was a partner in the undertaking, which had many other powerful backers. Grants covering more than 100,000 acres of land were made to the colony. Though the colonists found pioneering in Florida anything but idyllic, they accomplished a great deal in the nine years of the life of the settlement. An intricate system of canals drained the rich hammock land, and the indigo raised in the fertile soil found a good market in England.

Many of the settlers died; dissatisfaction was high and troops were brought in to keep the colonists in control. Charges and countercharges against administration of the colony were made by those friendly to the English Government and those opposed to it. When a new Governor of Florida was appointed in 1776 the remaining colonists were permitted to leave the settlement and they migrated to St. Augustine, where their descendants still form a part of the population.

New Smyrna changed little until 1803, when Spanish grants of land were given to the Martin and Murray families. From that time on, through periods of Seminole raids and blockade-running in the Civil War, the town has made slow progress. During the last 30 years it, like other east coast cities, has had stimulation from the advent of the railroad, the completion of the Intracoastal Waterway, and highway improvements.

Citrus groves, packing plants, and the shops of the F.E.C. Ry. provide the chief sources of income here, though the fishing and shrimping industries furnish employment for a large number of residents. The old FORT, Hillsboro St., between Washington and Julian Sts., was discovered and partly unearthed in 1854. Buried under a shell mound, the blocks of coquina are generally believed to have been the foundation of a home intended for Lord Hillsborough, begun at the time of the founding of the city in 1767 by Dr. Turnbull.

The TURNBULL CANAL, in places dug through solid coquina, extends 4 miles W. from the boat slip on the river's edge and is still used for drainage purposes. The canal is about 10 ft. wide and 10 deep; the section that flows through the center of town is covered by sidewalks and street intersections.

The CITY Zoo (free), on Lytel Ave. between Palmetto and Live Oak Sts., contains a small collection of native birds, alligators, and other fauna.

The YACHT CLUB, a Spanish-type, stuccoed building on an island in the Indian River opposite the Fifth St. Bridge, annually holds regattas for sail and motor boats.

The ANGLERS CLUB, opposite Washington St., on the tip of a large island in the river, is the headquarters of an active fishing and boating organization holding annual meets (Nov.-April). Ways and ample docking facilities are provided for small river and ocean craft.

In New Smyrna on Wayne Ave. and fronting on the river is the INDIAN RIVER DUDE RANCH, which has a main building and a number of rustic cottages, a large stable, a swimming pool, and a boathouse. The INDIAN RIVER SCHOOL, an expensive boys' preparatory institution, is under separate management, but occupies ranch buildings and uses ranch facilities.

Left on Washington St. is CORONADO BEACH, 1.5 m., reached by way of a roadway that traverses and connects several small islands built up by the mangroves that grow so prolifically in the Indian River opposite the city. The roadsides have been adorned with palms, flowering shrubs, and Australian pines.

From the drawbridge an excellent and unobstructed view of the river is presented. In the broad expanse of the river annual sail and motor boat regattas are held.

Across the bridge (R) is a low bluff known as DUMMITT'S MOUND, in reality an old Indian shell mound, named for Capt. D. D. Dummitt, New Smyrna's first port collector, who at one time lived on top of the bluff.

Beyond the peninsula, Flagler Ave. leads to a ramp that descends to the beach (bathing and boating facilities) . The beach southward is frequented by fishermen seeking redfish, better known as channel bass, some of which weigh 40 pounds.

The PONCE DE LEON LIGHTHOUSE (L) marks the entrance to the inlet of the same name.

At the river's edge is MASSACRE BLUFF, site of the massacre in 1835 of a number of French sailors by Seminole Indians.

Right from the beach on Flagler Ave. to TURTLE MOUND, 6 m., for centuries a familiar landmark to sailors. Rising 50 ft. above the beach and called the Mount of Surruque by the Indians, it was charted on maps of Florida as early as 1562.

Spanish galleons stopped here for repairs, wood, and water. Turtle Mound has been preserved by the Florida State Historical Society. A fishing camp and picnic grounds are provided on the lagoon side of the mound. At 12.5 m. a COAST GUARD STATION faces the ocean. So narrow is the peninsula at this point that the rear door of the station opens on a lagoon of the Indian River. Section 24. New Smyrna to Miami, 247.2 m.

This stretch of the highway borders the Intracoastal Waterway, which separates the Florida mainland from the Atlantic Ocean. Numerous side roads from US 1 lead across bridges and causeways to outlying peninsulas and keys where facilities for fishing and surf bathing are available. The foliage becomes more luxuriant and tropical S. of the picturesque Indian River.

Between Fort Pierce and Palm Beach the highway runs through a series of modest coast towns; between Palm Beach and Miami, Florida's "Gold Coast," landscaped estates and many nurseries line the highway, and add to the floral beauty of the region.

South of New Smyrna, the highway winds through dense palmetto growth known as the TURNBULL HAMMOCKS, once broad cleared acres of fertile soil.

A barrier of pines and cabbage palms obscures MOSQUITO LAGOON (L), but the numerous signs advertising camps and boats for hire and "Tom, Dick and Harry's" camps attest the popularity of fishing at the end of the many winding sand trails that run down toward the sea.

At 14 in . the highway curves (R) across a lowland meadow and crosses a new concrete railroad overpass. Descending, the roadway follows a fill barely three feet above the water level, and traverses part of a vast salt marsh, where grasses are gathered and shipped for use as broom fillers.

Small creeks twist between the islands of palms, cypresses, and sweetgums. Throughout the spring months the marsh is an undulating field of yellow sunflowers; during September it is pink with rosemallow. In early morning and late afternoon, flocks of ibises, cranes, and other water birds feed along the causeway and in the marshes. Kingfishers sit on telephone wires, ready to make sudden plunges for minnows.

At 16 m. the highway enters a short stretch of hammock where tall cabbage palms predominate. The white bud of this native palm, cooked or raw, is considered a great delicacy. When the bud is out, however, the tree dies. Commanding features of the landscape are the rows of tall, dark green Australian pines that line the highway, forming windbreaks for adjoining citrus groves.

At 29.5 m. the highway climbs another new concrete overpass, offering a sweeping panorama of a long, palm- and pine-bordered sound known as INDIAN RIVER. In the distance (R) the river broadens to its greatest width, 7 miles, and the shore of Merritt Island is dimly revealed. The FEDERAL RADIO STATION (R) broadcasts hourly weather reports for airplane guidance.

TITUSVILLE, 32.5 m. (14 alt., 2,089 pop.), seat of Brevard County, was named for Col. H. T. Titus, an early resident who was an antagonist of John Brown in the days of "Bleeding Kansas." Louis Coleman, one of the pioneer settlers, owned the Sand Point lands in North Titusville that the agent of Henry M. Flagler once sought to purchase. Coleman put too great a price on the property and the proposed Flagler development took place at Palm Beach instead.

Between the highway and the river is the SAND POINT IMPROVEMENT PROJECT, which now contains a yacht basin, a swimming pool, a diving tower, a ball diamond, tennis courts, and a dirt track for auto or pony races. The 67-acre park and recreation center is reclaimed swampland, a mosquito-control as well as a beautification project. Oleanders and hibiscus plantings surround the 19th century frame houses and boom-period stucco buildings, which line the west bank of the Indian River.

The city's industrial plants include five citrus-packing houses; the State's largest BARREL FACTORY, whose products are used by the fish and vegetable shippers of the Indian River country; and a CRABMEAT PICKING AND PACKING PLANT on the CITY PIER (open).

Left from Titusville on State 119, crossing Indian River Bridge to the first road L. ; L. here, passing a heavy live-oak hammock with the appearance of a park, to the old DUMMITT GROVE, 8 m. Part of it is said to be the oldest living citrus grove in Florida, having been planted about 1830. Its trees still bear fruit. Since the death of Gapt. Douglas D. Dummitt, the founder, there have been many successive owners, including the Italian Duke of Gastalucci, who built the present octagonal house, still called the DUKE'S CASTLE. Between Titusville and Indian River the highway is bordered with tall oleanders.

INDIAN RIVER CITY, 36.3 m. (19 alt., 120 pop.), frequently called Clark's Corner, is a community with several Spanish-type houses, and with gas stations, a lunchroom, and a post office in a natural park facing the widest part of the Indian River.

South of Indian River City the highway is slightly elevated and parallels Indian River; it is shaded by the growth of tall palms and pines. Palmetto thickets, low shrubbery, and scrub pine (R) add to the beauty of the water views.

At 44.6 m. is a junction with the old Dixie Highway, which follows the shore of the Indian River through Cocoa and Rockledge, rejoining US 1, the express highway, near Bonaventure Station; L. here.

COCOA, 51.7 m. (26.5 alt., 2,164 pop.), is a tourist city and a citrus center. Fruit trees in nearby hammocks are said to have borne since 1868. The serenity of palm- and shrub-darkened residential sections contrasts with the scattered business section, which appears to cover too large an area. Incorporated in 1895, Cocoa is an outgrowth of Rockledge. It was named for the nut palm that grows in the vicinity, one of the most graceful of palms, its trunk curving upward to the great clusters of nuts at the top.

Fishermen, casting from the platforms at the sides of the Indian River Bridge, make numerous catches of salt-water fishes, among which the shark is not uncommon. Schools of porpoise roll through the water, and pelicans are often seen to drop vertically and snatch fish from the water.

Good fishing is found in the quiet waters of the Indian and Banana Rivers, in the surf along the beach, off the coast (boatsfor hire at city dock, foot of King St.), and in the fresh waters of the upper St. John's River and its lakes.

Woodlands W. of the city offer a variety of game, and LAKE POINSETT provides good bass fishing (boats and guides available).

Left from Cocoa, across a free bridge, is MERRITT, 1 m., on Merritt Island. This island, stretching along the coast for 42 miles and varying in width from 9 miles to a strip barely wider than the road, is named for an adventurous Spanish grandee of the early 19th century.

1. Left from Merritt on a narrow paved road are INDIANOLA, 3 m., COURTENAY, 5 m., and ORSINO, 15 m., all citrus-growing communities.

2. Right from Merritt on a winding paved road through many groves and past deserted houses to GEORGINA, 5 m., with old churchyard burial grounds; LOTUS, 9 m.; TROPIC, 15 m.; and across Banana River Bridge (toll 25$ to INDIALANTIC BEACH, 21 m.

3. Left from Merritt, then R., crossing a narrow causeway to COCOA BEACH, 9 m., offering beach motoring, surf bathing, and beach or pier fishing.

Left here on the shell and marl road, passing through wild and tangled growth to ARTESIA, 17 m., and CANAVERAL HARBOR, 18 m., proposed in 1925 as a harbor for Orlando. CAPE CANAVERAL (Sp., reedy point), 23 m., was noted in 1513 by Ponce de Leon, who called it Cape of the Currents. It appeared as Canaveral on LeMoyne's map of 1564. Menendez was wrecked here in July 1572 and walked to St. Augustine, arriving in the late fall. He saved himself from capture by the Indians by telling them that a large Spanish force was following him. Canaveral's first lighthouse, built in 1847 and in time endangered by encroaching seas, was replaced in 1868 by the present TOWER. The light, flashing every minute from its 139-ft. height, is visible for 17 nautical miles. ROCKLEDGE, 53.2 m. (29 alt., 551 pop.), an oak- and palmshaded city that is one of the oldest resorts on the east coast, was named for the ledge of coquina, rising from 3 to 20 ft. above the river, on which it is situated.

BONAVENTURE, 56 m. (16 alt.), is a small settlement of citrus growers and farmers. At 57.8 m. the alternate route unites with US 1 . At 59 m. the shore line of the Indian River is irregular and the banks are often relatively high. Small pine- and palm-studded peninsulas jutting into the river create lagoons reflecting everchanging sky colors and cloud formations. The early name for the river was Ais (Ind., deer). The Ais Indians who occupied this area antedated other Florida tribes.

EAU GALLIE, 68.9 m. (19 alt., 871 pop.), named by W. H. Gleason with a combination of French and Indian words meaning rocky water, is on the coquina shores of the Indian and Gallic Rivers, opposite the mouth of the Banana River. Shortly after the Civil War Gleason had been appointed to make a topographical and agricultural survey of the Florida peninsula to ascertain whether it was suitable for Negro colonization; finding that the natural resources of the country required capital and skilled labor for successful development, he reported adversely. In 1866 he settled in the district. River traffic once flourished here; in 1890 all material for Flagler's Royal Poinciana Hotel was brought by rail to this point where it was trans-shipped for carriage to Palm Beach by water. A State agricultural college established nearby in 1874 was one of several institutions later merged to form the University of Florida, now at Gainesville.

Left from Eau Gallic on State 101 across the Indian River are EAU GALLIE BEACH, 2m., and the CANOVA OCEAN FISHING PIER.

At the east end of the bridge is the junction (L) with a paved road leading to MATHER'S BRIDGE, 4 m., beyond the Banana River, another favorite fishing place. South of Eau Gallic the highway runs along the high river bank, affording a view of the river to the MELBOURNE BRIDGE and beyond. MELBOURNE, 73.5 m. (22 alt., 2,677 pop.), named by a native of Australia for the town of his birth, contains buildings more rococo in style than are those of the Indian River towns to the N. There is an 18-hole GOLF COURSE (open; greensfee $1.50; special weekly, monthly, and season rates).

More than 100 varieties of fresh- and salt-water fishes are caught near here. Artificial lures are favored for all types of fishing (information, tackle, guides, and boats available at docks).

Right from Melbourne on State 24 to CRANE CREEK, 3.5 m., where workers of the Smithsonian Institution excavated mastodon remains now on exhibition in Washington, D.C.

MALABAR, 79.9 m. (26 alt., 138 pop.), consists of several white families and a Negro colony working at the sawmill W. of the railroad.

GRANT, 85.2 m. (11 alt., 209 pop.), is the site of a factory that manufactures small hydroelectric plants for homes. Here the highway penetrates several palm jungles, giving emphasis to the increasingly tropical nature of the flora. Frequent views of Indian River reveal sand bars swarming with herons and other waterfowl. MICCO, 89 m. (25 alt., 274 pop.), consisting of many old houses, each with its sulphur-water artesian well, derives its name from the Seminole word for chief.

At 91.5 m. is the SEBASTIAN CREEK BRIDGE, a concrete span replacing the narrow wooden bridge that proved the Waterloo of southern Florida's most notorious band of desperados. It was on this site that in November 1924 the nucleus of the Ashley gang John Ashley, Hanford Mobley, Ray Lynn, and Bob Middleton met death in battle with deputy sheriffs. Fleeing their haunts after 14 years of bank robbing, high jacking, rum running, and bootlegging, these four members of the gang were stopped at the bridge by a red lantern and a chain, and shot when they resisted arrest.

The white sandy plot (R) is the SITE OF A FISHING CAMP used prior to 1890 by Grover Cleveland, E. C. Ballard, and others. Although their winter homes were in Eau Gallic, they came here by boat to take advantage of the excellent fishing grounds. South of this bridge the highway parallels Indian River for 4 miles.

Across Indian River (L) is Sebastian Inlet, providing a channel between the ocean and the river. This inlet was dredged by the united efforts of nearby communities.

SEBASTIAN, 93.9 m. (21 alt., 386 pop.), in a beautiful area, was one of the first trading posts on the east coast. River steamers formerly stopped at the foot of Main St., where some of the pilings of the old dock are still visible. The street was first cleared to facilitate the hauling of wood to steamers for fuel.

Sebastian is on the side of a ridge that slopes to the Indian River. Practically every residence has a view of the water. The town having no water system, each house has its own artesian well; the water is impregnated with sulphur.

Henry M. Flagler is reputed to have negotiated for a site near here, as well as in Titusville, for the proposed resort hotel before his railroad reached this point, but was unable ^to obtain a clear title.

Across the river (L) is PELICAN ISLAND, a Government bird sanctuary in which thousands of white pelicans and terns spend the winter months. The drying nets, fish docks, and crab-picking shacks, hanging precariously over the waters of Indian River (L), are in distinct contrast with the neat cottages and landscaped lawns that line the opposite side of the highway.

WABASSO, 98.9 m. (20 alt., 300 pop.), probably named by Guale Indians who migrated here from Ossabawa, near Savannah, Ga., is a small community sustained by its fishing industry, citrus groves, packing houses, and a sawmill.

At 100.6 m. the highway swings away from the Indian River to enter an area devoted largely to the citrus industry.

GIFFORD, 104.6 m. (19 alt., 500 pop.), was named for F. Charles Gifford, who is credited with having selected the site for Vero Beach. It is said that he held up the extension of the F.E.C. Ry. by placing an excessive price on his land. In retaliation, the railroad started a small town exclusively for Negroes and named it for him. The railroad was built around the Gifford holdings, and Gifford is now the Negro section of Vero Beach.

At 106.8 m. both sides of the highway are lined with rows of towering Australian pines, which form an attractive entrance to Vero Beach from the north and protect the citrus groves (L).

VERO BEACH, 107.1 m. (19 alt., 2,268 pop.), seat of Indian River County, was about 1882 selected as a townsite by W. H. Gifford, because of the fertility of the soil in the area. The present town extends across the Indian River (known as the Narrows at this point) to the Atlantic Ocean. Vero Beach is a citrus shipping point and popular with winter visitors.

The skeletal finds of Dr. Sellards (1916) were made in the Van Valkenburg's Creek area in the western part of the village during a canal excavation. Parts of human skeletons of some antiquity were uncovered here and the probable age of the Vero Beach man became the subject of much speculation and controversy.

POCAHONTAS PARK, 14th Ave. and 21st St., offers recreational facilities and is a tourist center.

Left two blocks E. of the center of town onto an avenue lined with royal palms, hibiscuses, and oleanders; beyond a drawbridge over the Intracoastal Waterway is the ocean shore. There is excellent fishing at this point (boats and guides available). A CASINO (open Nov.-May) faces the ocean; beyond it are many private estates.

At 109 m. US 1 crosses one of several drainage canals that carry the overflow from bottom lands lying W. of the road. These canals and lateral ditches are part of the Indian River Drainage District projects, covering more than 50,000 acres. The drained lands produce pineapples and winter vegetables.

At 109.7 m. (L) are the McKEE JUNGLE GARDENS (adm. $1, children under 14 free; guides for parties), covering 80 acres. They were opened in 1931 by Arthur G. McKee, an Ohio industrialist who, during many years of world travel, had become interested in tropical plant culture. McKee made the gardens in a desire to create an area of outstanding beauty. From a virgin tract of jungle growth he cleared away only the trees and underbrush necessary for the successful propagation of 2,500 different species of tropical and subtropical plants; along winding paths now grow thousands of rare and exotic plants, gathered from every corner of the globe. In the jungle depths are many valuable varieties of orchids, ferns, and flowering vines. Growing in the pools and lagoons are water lilies, some with pads large enough to support a child. Of special interest are the bougainvillea glade, the azalea garden, the mirror pool, the watery maze, and the cathedral aisle leading to the lower glen. The pools are fed by an artesian well. Alligators, peacocks, parrots, and other jungle inhabitants are on display and native birds have found the garden a place of sanctuary. A large enclosure contains a number of monkeys.

In the heart of the garden a Seminole Indian village has been built with thatched huts that are open at all tunes to those of the race who may care to visit here.

FORT PIERCE, 122 m. (24 alt., 6,376 pop.), seat of St. Lucie County, was named for the fort built on the site in 1838 as a link in the chain of east coast fortifications to protect settlers from the Indians. The site was doubtless selected because the St. Lucie Inlet afforded easy communication by water with the North. Despite the Indians, white settlers remained in the area to cultivate pineapples and garden truck. Some citrus groves were set out. The blight and freeze of 1898 proved a serious setback to farmers and grove owners here, but today citrus-growing remains one of the principal industries.

Fort Pierce is the most important shipping point between Jacksonville and Miami. The city is the transfer point for large cargoes of citrus, vegetables, fish, lumber, and some phosphate. It is also the receiving point for incoming cargoes of general merchandise to be distributed along the central east coast. A new $100,000 pier with refrigerated citrus-shipping facilities is leased by the Bull Steamship Lines, which provide five weekly freight sailings to Baltimore and New York.

One of the principal tourist attractions is fishing. Snook, trout, channel bass, and numerous other salt-water fish are caught from boats in the Indian River channel, off the jetties at the inlet, along the causeway, and from the pier. In nearby back-country streams black bass, perch, and other varieties abound.

An annual Washington's Birthday event is the gathering of the "old timers" from the lower Indian River section, who swap yarns of the old days. A record of these recollections has been kept for a number of years.

Left from Fort Pierce on State 140, passing the SITE OF FORT SANTA LUCIA. Menendez left a garrison here in 1568, but the Indians killed so many of the soldiers that the survivors mutinied and abandoned their fortifications, fleeing northward to St. Augustine.

This narrow though well-paved road parallels Indian River for its entire length, affording fine views. Along it are some of the best citrus groves of the Indian River country. JENSEN, 15 m., is a small resort for tourists and sportsmen. At 15.5 m. R. to RIO, 17.5 m., and the junction with US 1 (see below). WHITE CITY, 126.9 m. (32 alt., 670 est. pop.), the second largest community in St. Lucie Co., was settled shortly after the Chicago World's Fair of 1893 by a number of Danish people from Chicago who became interested in the opportunities for citrus cultivation in this area after reading a series of articles on the raising of citrus fruits, written by a Danish newspaper man covering the fair. The citizens named their principal street Midway, commemorating the main street at the Chicago Fair.

White City derives a substantial income from citrus and truck farming. Two asparagus ferneries are also in the vicinity. Between White City and 129.9 m. US 1 is bordered (L) by the JENSEN SAVANNAH, a low grassy plain, in which are lakes, ponds, creeks, runs, and branches of the St. Lucie River. This wild country, full of game, birds, and fish, is so low that most of it is under water after a heavy rain. Guides should be used by those unfamiliar with the area (guides and boats available at Jensen or Stuart).

At 139.1 m. is the St. Lucie River, the eastern section of the CROSS-STATE WATERWAY. This route affords water passage for ships and yachts of 6-foot draft or less, from the Atlantic Ocean, by way of the St. Lucie Canal, Lake Okeechobee, and the Caloosahatchee River, to the Gulf of Mexico (see FLA. GUIDE).

STUART, 140.1 m. (14 alt., 2,070 pop.), the principal community in Martin Co., built on the St. Lucie River, near the inlet of the same name, is a quiet town of importance only because of the exceptional fishing in its vicinity (guides availablefor hunting andfishing on the Jensen Savannah). Right from Stuart on the N. fork of the St. Lucie River to the GILSON SLIDE RULE FACTORY, 3 m. Besides making straight rules for various purposes, the factory grinds circular rules and calculators, and prints books of instruction on^their uses.

At 154.1 m. picturesque HOBE SOUND is seen (L), surrounded by Australian pines. This body of water, a part of the Intracoastal Waterway, is noted for its good fishing. Its name was apparently derived fromjobe (Sp., Jupiter). In 1682 Johnathon Dickenson and a number of others were shipwrecked about 5 miles above Jupiter Inlet, and were captured by Indians who took them S. to the inlet, which the aborigines called Hoe Bay.

At 156 m. the highway runs on high ground furnishing a delightful view of the sound across a wide rolling, treeless country. For about 5 miles the highway parallels the ocean, permitting an almost unobstructed view of the varicolored waters.

At 163 m. parking space has been provided for cars, between the highway and the high bank of the beach. This spot, popular for surf fishing, is used largely by residents of West Palm Beach.

At 165 m. (R) is a small stone monument commemorating the so-called "Celestial Railroad" that connected Jupiter with the vanished settlements of Neptune, Mars, Juno, and Venus. Juno, at the northern end of Lake Worth, was the seat of old Dade Co. from 1889 to 1899, but declined in importance when the seat was transferred to Miami. The railroad was abandoned in 1 894, when the through line from Jacksonville was opened by Henry M. Flagler.

At 167 m. (L) is the 18-hole SEMINOLE GOLF CLUB (private). Right of the highway at 169 m. is KELSEY CITY (470 pop.), built during the boom. When it was incorporated in 1923, the citizens spent a considerable amount of money promoting it as the future "largest industrial city in the South," but it became a tiny suburb whose residents commute to West Palm Beach.

RIVIERA, 174.2 m. (19 alt., 1,629 pop.), on the western shore of Lake Worth (three tourist camps, trailer space, and cabins), has a colony of Conchs, a people of Spanish, English, Negro, and Indian blood, named for the shellfish they are said to eat. Early in the 19th century a group of English fishermen established a colony on the Bahama Islands; intermarried there with Negroes and Spaniards; then moved, in 1900, to Singers Island on Lake Worth opposite Riviera, where they intermarried with a nearby band of Seminoles. When a tropical hurricane destroyed their settlement in 1919, they moved to their present home L. of US 1 . These people have dark skins, kinky hair, thick lips, and broad features of Negroes. Although the men confine their activities to fishing, the women and children weave palmetto baskets, and make flowers and trinkets from fish scales.

Railroad Stations. Seaboard Air Line Ry., Tamarind St. between Evernia and Datura Sts.; Florida East Coast Ry., 5th St. and Railroad Ave.
Airport. Eastern Airlines, Municipal Airport, 5 miles W. of city on Southern Blvd. Taxi fare 50^, time 15 min.
Ferries. West Palm Beach to Palm Beach, fare 5.
Points of Interest. Dockmaster's Home, Ada L. Saunders' Museum, Elisha N. Dimick Monument, and others.
West Palm Beach, founded in 1893 by Henry M. Flagler, is a commercial and resort city, stretching for eight and a half miles along the west shore of Lake Worth.

Left from West Palm Beach on Lakeview Avenue across Lake Worth bridge to a narrow island, on which at 1 m. is PALM BEACH (14 alt., 1,836 pop.), one of the most fashionable winter resorts in America (fishing, bathing; prices increased during winter). Around the shores of Lake Worth are palatial villas, elegant hotels and cottages. Several of the ornate buildings here were designed during the boom period by Addison Mizner; a number of beautiful modern homes have been built recently. On the grounds of the Royal Poinciana Hotel is a rare TAMARIND TREE. The PALM BEACH ART CENTER (free) on Main St. exhibits the work of contemporary artists. One of the show places is WHITE HALL, the former home of Henry M. Flagler (1830-1913), whose business was a partnership in the Standard Oil Co., and hobby was making Florida a winter resort.

LAKE WORTH, 185.9 m. (21 alt., 5,119 pop.), received its name from the lake that stretches along its eastern edge. This body of water, 1 8 miles long and separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of land, is actually a lagoon; it was named for Maj. Gen. William J. Worth, in charge of the American force in the last days of the Seminole War. Municipally owned ice, cold storage, electric light, and water plants pay most of the cost of operating the village. The municipal 18-hole GOLF COURSE in on the lake front at the foot of Lucerne Ave. (greensfee, 75). On the ocean front is the Lake Worth CASINO (dancing and swimming), reached by a bridge.

LANTANA, 188.2 m. (11 alt., 253 pop.), named for a shrub with dense spikes of red and white flowers that grows wild here, has as its principal attraction a large OSTRICH AND ALLIGATOR FARM (open daily, adm. 25$), near the northern city limits. Here are exhibited alligators of all ages, ranging from those just hatched to one veteran said to be more than 400 years old. In addition to crocodiles and ostriches, the farm has monkeys, lemurs, kangaroos, and snakes.

BOYNTON BEACH, 192.2 m. (19 alt., 1,053 pop.), a trading center, stands on a sandy ridge in an area of rich farm lands. An exceptionally fertile soil, composed of marl, muck, and sand, extends westward from the town limits to the Everglades. Many Finnish farmers have settled here.

DELRAY BEACH, 196.8 m. (20 alt., 2,706 pop.), is a tourist resort and center of an area producing beans, peppers, tomatoes, fruits, peanuts, and sugar cane. Here is a settlement of Michigan farmers of German ancestry. A large PIGEON-BREEDING PLANT furnishes squabs for the Palm Beach market. West on Atlantic Ave. is the DELRAY CLUBHOUSE and 9-hole GOLF COURSE (open). At Atlantic Ave. and the coastal canal is the CITY PARK (picnic and recreation grounds, shuffleboard courts, and card pavilions). At the eastern end of Atlantic Ave. and Ocean Blvd. is the DELRAY PAVILION AND POOL (smallfee). Fronting the ocean at this point is a mile-long municipal beach (surffishing; boats rentedfor deep-sea faking) .

In Delray is JOURNEY'S END, home of the writer, Nina Wilcox Putnam. Its doors, windows, and grillwork were salvaged from the old Royal Poinciana Hotel in Palm Beach. Mrs. Putnam, assisted by her husband and son, did much of the construction work.

Left from Delray Beach op Atlantic Ave. to the SUNKEN GARDENS, 1.8 m. (open daily, adm. 35; guides). Here is grown a variety of floral curiosities, including the dainty lipstick flower, the silk-cotton tree, the pelican flower, the jackfruit tree with fruit sometimes 40 pounds in weight, and more than 2,000 other plants. At 2 m. is the town of GULF STREAM, a small village centering about the wealthy GULF STREAM CLUB (private) and its 18-hole golf course lying between the boulevard and the coastal canal. North of the golf course, side roads leading from the boulevard are lined with tall Australian pines, coconut palms, and pink and white oleanders. Clumps of royal and cabbage palms grow near the fairways. On a side road W. of the club are the POLO FIELDS, where, in 1 936, Serge Mdivani was killed. Winding in and out among the trees and shrubbery are bridle paths leading to the stables, maintained primarily for the polo ponies. At 201.6 m. is the junction with an asphalt road.

Right a short distance on this road is YAMATO, settled by Japanese who grew tomatoes and pineapples until 1926, when they sold their property to real estate promoters and moved to other sections of the State. All that remains of the village is a small store and an unused freight station.

BOCA RATON (Sp., rafs mouth}, 205 m. (17 alt., 784 pop.), is a small resort. Its name was first applied to an inlet just S. of the city limits. Left of US 1, about half a mile SE. of the town hall, is the BOCA RATON CLUB (private), which has a limited membership of wealthy people. Additions have been made to the club building, originally designed by Addison Mizner as an inn. It now contains 605 rooms, five patios, an outdoor swimming pool, and a ballroom. A cut has been dredged to connect Lake Boca Raton with the ocean and allow yachts to moor at the club wharves. The club maintains a golf course, gun traps, and a riding stable.

DEERFIELD, 207.5 m. (15 alt., 1,556 pop.), a farming town where quantities of beans and peppers are grown, was originally named Hillsboro, but adopted its present name about 1907 when deer were plentiful in the vicinity. Negroes, who settled here to work in the now extinct pineapple-growing industry, still form two-thirds of the population. Many have prospered as landowners.

POMPANO, 213.7 m. (15 alt., 3,000 pop.), originally a small village on the ocean, moved several miles inland to its present site, after suffering much damage in the 1928 hurricane. An engineer surveying here for the railroad was delighted by the flavor of a fish served him at dinner. When he learned that the fish was called pompano and abounded in the waters opposite this site he put "Pompano" on his map as the village's name. Although pompano also known as butterfish, are rare and are considered a luxury in other parts of Florida they breed offshore at this point, feeding on the shellfish, and can be caught with rod and reel, though a net is usually employed. The meat is fine-flaked, with a delicate flavor.

In spite of the town's name, gardening is of first importance here. During the winter months, when beans and green peppers are harvested, New York vegetable buyers come here to purchase crops.

The town's small crate factories, vegetable-packing platforms, express loading platforms, and railroad offices, ordinarily deserted, then become centers of activity; on every street corner groups of farmers, buyers, and merchants gather to discuss the latest market quotations on vegetables.

Left from Pompano on a paved road at 3.7 m. is HILLSBOROUGH LIGHTHOUSE on Hillsborough Inlet, named for the Earl of Hillsborough who owned large Florida grants during English occupation. Human bones excavated here are said to be pirate remains.

The Hillsborough light completed in 1907, a 5,500,000 candlepower light and one of the most powerful on the South Atlantic coast, marks the northern limit of the Florida Reef, an underwater coral formation paralleling the lower part of the east coast of Florida.

At 217 m. (R) are recently abandoned rock pits containing skyblue water that contrasts vividly with the uncompromising white of the unweathered limestone borders.

At 217.3 m. is the ornate gilt gateway (L) of the LION FARM (adm. adults 35, children 75^), where lions are bred for zoos and circuses. Most of the beasts live in unfenced grottos surrounded by waterfilled moats, across which they are afraid to venture.

FORT LAUDERDALE, 222.1 m. (10 alt., 9,222 pop.), is the seat of Broward Co. and a favorite headquarters of winter yachtsmen. It was built on the side of an abandoned military outpost called by the same name and established in 1837 during the second Seminole War.

The Indians believed the NEW RIVER, 75 ft. deep and bisecting the city from E. to W., was created in a single night. Geologists explain that the stream was probably an underground river, suddenly exposed when surface rock crumbled during an earthquake. The river is as black and as deep now as when it was filled with alligators; but today its dark surface mirrors the white paint, mahogany, and gleaming brass of pleasure boats.

More than 100 miles of natural and artificial waterways wind through Fort Lauderdale; some were built to aid commerce and agriculture, while others were intended to add to the charms of boom-time subdivisions, whose empty artificial islands and unfinished Venetian bridges now stand deserted.

COLEE MONUMENT, in a little wooded park at Tarpon Bend in the New River, marks the site of the old fort. Here, in the heart of COLEE HAMMOCK, now a prominent residential section, occurred a massacre of whites (1842) by Seminole Indians under the leadership of Arpeika (Sam Jones-be-Damned).

Youthful Crop-ear Charlie, a member of Arpeika's tribe, had been friendly with the white people. Caught while trying to warn his benefactors of the plans he had overheard, he was bound to a tree and forced to witness the slaying of the whites. Afterward his tribe punished him by cropping his ears, upper right and lower left; depriving him of his name and identifying family colors; and exiling him, with only a hunting knife and a few rags, in the Everglades. He was told that after seven years he might approach the camp and ask for another trial. Seven years later, in June, at the time of the Green Corn Dance, when the annual council again sat to pass on violations of tribal laws, warriors examined him and decided that he could live near the tribe, but he could not marry nor could he eat, sleep, or hunt with his people. He still was denied his Indian name and tribal dress. No member of the tribe was allowed to mention his name, but answered all questions about him with "I don't know anything." Crop-ear Charlie lived to be more than a hundred years old, dying in a little shack near the present town of Dania.

Near Las Olas Blvd. is the HOTEL AMPHITRITE, built in the remodeled superstructure of a passenger steamship that the 1934 hurricane obligingly moved across the river and beached on this convenient spot.

U.S. COAST GUARD BASE No. 6, at Las Olas Beach, is an outgrowth of one of the houses of refuge that the Federal Government constructed in 1888 at intervals of 25 miles along sections of the lower Florida coast. At that time the coast was poorly charted and unprotected. Built to shelter shipwrecked sailors, these structures were used by travelers and by the local populace during hurricanes.

Beginning at Fort Lauderdale, the old Dixie Highway follows the CAPRON TRAIL, built during the Seminole Wars; it was cut bit by bit through the native jungle, later becoming a 1 6-mile wagon road to Miami. Having served its purpose that of enabling the soldiers to cut off the flow of supplies from the Seminoles, which were being imported from Cuba the Capron Trail was abandoned at the end of the war and, in most places, became obliterated. Consequently, travel between Palm Beach and Miami, until the establishment of the railroad in 1896, was very difficult. The traveler had either to go by boat or to walk 66 miles along a lonely beach. If he chose to walk he usually accompanied the postman who carried the mail from Palm Beach to Miami on foot and he paid five dollars for the privilege. Only the postman knew the trail. Hidden at the numerous inlets, the mail carrier had boats in which he ferried his companions across.

At 224.1 m. is the intersection with a new rock road. Left on this road 3 m. is PORT EVERGLADES, marine shipping point for Broward Co., with a fine harbor. The new harbor, built in a shallow lagoon known during boom times as Lake Mable, was created by the opening of a deep exit to the ocean. With a 35-ft. depth, Port Everglades is a port of call for large passenger vessels, and its freight traffic has increased in recent years.

At 225.1 m. (L) is a BANYAN TREE advertised as the "milliondollar tree." This amazing native of East India has a large smooth trunk and horizontal limbs from which it sends down slender, vinelike branches that take root in the ground and develop into secondary trunks attached to the parent and forming in time a whole grove. A boom-time yarn relates that a tourist offered the owner a million dollars for the huge tree, provided that it could be transplanted to his northern estate and persuaded to survive the cold.

DANIA, 227.4 m. (12 alt., 1,674 pop.), a tomato-farming center, is in an area known during the Seminole Wars as Five Mile Hammock. Of the many Danish families who migrated to Dania in 1896, and subsequently named the town, little trace remains today.

South of the business district is Davie Road, paved but unmarked. Right on this road is a SEMINOLE INDIAN RESERVATION, 4 m., where Indian affairs for the entire State are managed. The office of the Indian agent is in a big, gray, frame house with a high gable roof. Its bleak unimaginative architecture contrasts sharply with the styles common in southern Florida.

The dozen or so small, white, one-room-and-porch houses of the Seminoles here are totally unlike the palmetto-thatched huts used by the Indians in the Everglades, and here are no banana plants, jungle stockades, or misspelled signs to attract the attention of passing strangers. The reservation has a business-like air; here the Seminole works and lives normally; he is not on parade with alligators and rattlesnakes as in the amusement areas of Miami and St. Petersburg. Jobs are provided for the Indians who live here permanently or for as long a time as they desire. The school offers both general education and simple vocational training.

The first modern Seminole church (Baptist) was built by the Indians at the reservation with contributed materials, and dedicated in the summer of 1936. In charge of the ceremonies was an Indian from Oklahoma named Holy Canard, who passed out printed business cards to the effect that he held a formal commission from the President as "principal chief of the Creek Nation." Church officials include Pastor William King and Deacons Jim Gopher and Willie Jumper.

DAVIE, 8 m., a conservative, year-round farming community rarely visited by tourists, is in the rich muck lands that skirt the edge of the Everglades. At 17 m. are the FLAMINGO CITRUS GROVES (open), yielding more than 72 varieties of tropical fruit. Many tropical plants are on display in the nearby botanical gardens.

HOLLYWOOD-BY-THE-SEA, 230.1 m. (7 alt., 1,674 pop.), built in 1921 by a California developer, Joseph W. Young, is directly on the ocean shore, where the city owns nearly 6 miles of public beaches.

RIVERSIDE MILITARY ACADEMY, a large privately-owned military school, housed in a boom-time hotel, holds winter terms here and fall and spring terms in Gainesville, Ga.

HOLLYWOOD BEACH HOTEL, a large, many-towered structure, at the eastern terminus of palm-bordered Hollywood Blvd., is a complete resort city under one roof. Near the ocean is the municipallyowned BATHING CASINO, with three bathing pools, two for children and one for adults, in which some nationally famous swimmers have been trained.

The HOLLYWOOD GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB, on 17th Ave., is maintained for the guests of the Hollywood Beach Hotel; the ballroom of the club house has a glass dance floor and a removable ceiling. The MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE is W. of 36th Ave.

OJUS, 233.9 m. (1 3 alt., 600 est. pop.), was incorporated as a town in 1925 but soon acquired so many debts that it was forced to give up its corporate existence.

The one industry is the MAULE Ojus ROCK PLANT, mining limestone that is used in building and road construction.

Across the highway (R) is GREYNOLDS PARK in an area of abandoned rock pits. Above stone-block walls rises a castellated observation tower; this structure, of native rock with a ramp spiraling to the top, was patterned after an Aztec temple. Inside the park, an area of sweeping green lawns surrounds a stone pavilion that harmonizes architecturally with the English type stone cottage of the caretaker. To the W. are picnic grounds in a native hammock, and large groves of glossy Caribbean pines.

NORTH MIAMI BEACH, 236 m. (500 est. pop.), was formerly named Fulford for an early settler. It is said the town changed its name in the hope of becoming a railway terminal for Miami Beach, which has no such facilities.

At the traffic light is the junction with Golden Glades Road, also called Sunny Isles Road.

Left on this causeway road, crossing salt marshes to the ocean and SUNNY ISLES CASINO, 2 m. This building stands at the junction of the Golden Glades Road and State 140, the latter winding southward along the ocean beach. There are many beautiful homes in this section. Near the Sunny Isles Casino is a new fishing pier (nominal charge).

Right on State 140; at BAKER'S HAULOVER, 3.7 m., a bridge that crosses an outlet to upper Biscayne Bay where a long stone jetty extends into the ocean. The jetty is a popular fishing place.

At 237 m. is the junction with a paved road, a remnant of the old East Dixie Highway, heavily traveled during the boom, but seldom used today.

Right on this road is ARCH CREEK NATURAL BRIDGE, 0.5 m., carved out of native oolitic rock and used for passage since early Spanish days. A hundred years ago it was part of the Capron Trail. Over it passed soldiers to end the long, bloody Seminole War, which the Indians and their allies were prolonging by successfully landing supplies and contraband from Cuba in southern Florida. At the SE. end of the bridge, a quiet place with great vine-clad oaks, stood the stone house and mill of Luis, part Indian and part Cuban, who served as agent in the transactions. Here was fought one of the battles of the war. At 237.2 m. US 1 crosses Arch Creek as it flows through a pleasant meadow.

At 242.1 m. US 1 broadens, following Biscayne Boulevard. MIAMI, 247.2 m. (10 alt., 110,637 pop.), winter resort (see FLA. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Seaboard Airline Ry., 2210 NW. 7th Ave.; Florida East Coast Ry., 200 NW. 1st Ave.
Airports. Pan American Airways, Inc., 2500 S. Bayshore Dr., Miami; 5.5 m., taxi fare, 50yf, time 1 5 min. Eastern Air Lines, NW. 36th St. at Miami Springs, 7 m., taxi fare $1.50, time 30 min. Planes for local or short trips, at Chalk's Flying Service, County Causeway; Viking Airport, Venetian Causeway.
Steamship Piers. Clarke Steamship Co., Pier No. 2, foot of NE. 10th St., Clyde- Mallory Steamship Co., Pier No. 2, foot of NE. 10th St.; Merchants and Miners Trans. Co., Pier No. 1, foot of NE. 12th St.; Munson Steamship Line, Pier No. 3, foot of NE. 9th St.; Peninsular & Occidental Steamship Co., Pier No. 2, foot ofNE. 10th St.
Points of Interest. Aquarium, Old Fort Dallas, Lummus Park, Musa Island Indian Village, Pirate's Cove, Croton Gardens, Ten Million Dollar Hen Hotel, and others.

Section 25. Miami to Key West, 170.2 m. State 4A.
Ferries. Between Lower Matecumbe and Grassy Key and between Vaca and No Name Key; infrequent service. Inquire at Miami Motor Club for schedules and to make reservations; $2 to $4 for car and its passengers. Bridges under construction will be completed in spring of 1 938.

State 4A, an extension of US 1 known as the Oversea Highway, is the only route running down over the curving chain of coral islands at the southern end of Florida. For a few miles south of Miami it runs through resort suburbs of that city; it then traverses the yellow-green savannas whose flatness is broken only by occasional hammocks and clumps of mangrove. Herons and cranes feed in the drainage ditch beside the highway and far overhead float a few hawks. The route leaves the mainland, running for more than 100 miles across small keys, which, except in two places, are tied together by bridges. These breaks will eventually be spanned.

The bridges are so long that at times it seems as though the route were running over the sea itself; to the right is an arm of the Gulf of Mexico, to the left is the Atlantic Ocean. In the clear shallow waters beneath the bridges are seen spreading sea fans and fish among them the blue mass of the tentacled man-of-war and on the horizon the emerald dots of scattered islands.

East from the City Hall, m., in Miami on Flagler Ave.; R. on S. Miami Ave., which State 4A follows.

SOUTH MIAMI, 9.8m. (1,1 60 est. pop.), formerly called Larkins for an early storekeeper, was given its present name the day after he died. Large packing houses, characteristic of many in this vicinity, handle tomatoes, truck crops, and citrus. South of the city limits are (L) abandoned oolitic rockpits, now filled with clear greenish-blue water and often used as swimming pools by small fry.

In KENDAL, 11.5 m. (13 alt., 300 est. pop.), a small citrusgrowing settlement, are the COUNTY HOME and COUNTY HOSPITAL.

PERRINE, 17 m. (13 alt., 800 pop.), was named for Dr. Henry Perrine, a botanist who obtained a Government grant in 1835 for experimentation with tropical plants. Dr. Perrine introduced the sisal (Agave rigida), popularly miscalled the "century plant," which now has spread over south Florida.

PETERS, 18 m. (13 alt., 175 est. pop.), is named for Tom Peters, a pioneer tomato grower, who in pre-railroad days ran a mule tramline to Cutler, from which he shipped his produce N. by boat. At 20 m. is the junction with Mainland Drive.

Right on this paved road to the TROPICAL MONKEY JUNGLE (adm. 25$. Java monkeys run wild in a gumbo-limbo hammock; it is the visitors who are caged. Monkeys, even though eager for peanuts, will not enter the screen-guarded pathways for fear of being trapped. The tribe unites, when new monkeys are added to the colony, and drives them away. Some varieties of monkeys and apes are kept in cages.

GOULDS, 22 m. (12 alt., 326 pop.), is at the northern end of an area with large citrus groves.

PRINCETON, 24 m. (12 alt., 255 pop.), was originally called Modello. Here several Princeton graduates started a lumber mill in 1905, and put up a huge sign, Princeton. Although repeatedly removed, the sign always reappeared, and the F.E.C. Ry. finally adopted the name.

1. Right from Princeton on the Coconut Palm Road to REDLAND FARM LIFE SCHOOL, 2.3 m., which collects its pupils from a large area.

2. Left from Princeton on this road to the ALLSPATTAH (Ind., alligator) GARDENS, 2 in., where, in winter, several acres of sweet peas are in bloom.

At NARANJA (Sp., orange), 25 m. (150 pop.), the road is built across an old rock pit now filled with water. A float for swimmers is moored to the northern bank of the pit.

Left on this road to FENNELL ORCHID JUNGLE, 0.5 m. (open daily during winter blooming season, adm. 25; guides), a commercial orchid nursery. Hundreds of orchids, native and exotic, have been acclimated on hammock trees. Cattleya guatemalensis, a beautiful orchid blooming high in live-oaks, is grown in quantities. HOMESTEAD, 30.2 m. (9 alt., 2,319 pop.), is the commercial center of an agricultural area specializing in winter fruit growing.

With the coming of the railroad in 1904, Homestead, so named because its original settlers were homesteaders, developed rapidly from a primitive backwoods town into a modern community. A large tract N. of the town is being planted (1938) with 25,000 mahogany trees.

JOHNSTON'S PALM LODGE (free), Avocado Road and Krome Ave., owned by Col. H. W. Johnston, the Burbank of South Florida, contains one of the largest collections of tropical plants and trees in the country. There are 267 different kinds of jellies and marmalades on sale.

The SUBTROPICAL EXPERIMENT STATION, on Waldin Drive, conducts experiments in the raising of citrus fruits, avocados, and winter vegetables under subtropical conditions.

A large AVOCADO GROVE is on Waldin Drive. The Homestead Avocado Exchange has shipped about 2,000 carloads of the product in one season.

COCOLOBO CAY CLUB, on an island in Biscayne Bay opposite Homestead, is owned by a group of wealthy anglers. It was one of the haunts of Black Caesar, the pirate.

FLORIDA CITY, 31.7 m. (10 alt., 452 pop.), where royal palms grow in rows on the main street, was incorporated in 1913. It was first called Detroit, but the name was changed when the post office department objected.

Right from Florida City on State 205 to ED'S PLACE (free), 1m., containing monolithic garden furniture and large novelties carved by its owner from local oolite. This granular variety of limestone is composed of small round concretions and resembles fish roe in appearance.

At 14 m. is ROYAL PALM STATE PARK (free), where a 4,000-acre tract of dense hammock is preserved in its native state by Florida's women's clubs. It is within the borders of the proposed Everglades National Park. The 260 varieties of native plant life include tall palms, great oaks many of which harbor orchids and 31 varieties of ferns, some 27 ft. high. Here the strangler fig and morning glory grow to giant size. Here live multicolored butterflies, including the sleeping Heliconia. The area is a bird sanctuary; the giant ibis and pink flamingo live among 150 other species of birds.

PARADISE KEY, within the park, consists of 300 acres of jungle botanically similar to those of the West Indies. Here are native royal palms more than 100 feet tall; rare orchids, air plants, vines, and water plants of many kinds, including the Egyptian lotus.

ROYAL PALM LODGE (meals and rooms; picnic groundsfree) is open the year around. Proceeding W. through the park is a road, built along one of the many drainage canals. The banks (R) are covered for nearly 35 miles with buttonwood trees, gallberry and elderberry bushes. Beyond are thick mangrove islands and cypress hammocks; L. are small patches of cornfield and road construction-camp shacks. In some places are great expanses of dead mangrove trees, their trunks twisted and denuded of foliage. These are reminders of the devastating hurricane that visited this region September 3, 1935.

Cars can follow the road past BEAR LAKE, a desolate body of water about a mile wide and nearly two and a half miles long. This lake is full of many kinds of fishes, whose fins are seen cutting the surface of the water early in the morning and in the late afternoon.

The beautiful flamingo formerly existed here in such large numbers that it was killed, picked, and salted down as food, chiefly for use on sailing ships. Those remaining in the park are now given protection.

Cranes, herons, raccoons, skunks, otters, brown bears, and wildcats all inhabit the lake area, secure in their isolation.

Great alligators are occasionally visible, their snouts barely above the water. They are also seen sunning themselves on muddy banks.

South of Florida City the highway runs for 10 miles through desolate swamps where dense mangrove patches stretch claw-like roots into the water, gathering sediment that in time will form new land. At 43.5 m. the road slopes toward CARD SOUND BRIDGE, which stretches between the mainland and the northernmost of the group of coral islands extending 140 miles into the sea and forming a dividing line between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.

The largest, Key Largo, has the usual southern Florida palmetto and scrub flatwoods but S. of it the vegetation is increasingly tropical. The islands are narrow and level, and the vast blue expanse of the sea sweeps to the horizon. Tropical water birds are innumerable. Palms, gumbo-limbo, and golden fig and lime trees grow from coral crevices so glaringly white that it is painful to look at them without tinted glasses. The keys are divided into two groups, the Upper and the Lower. North of Bahia Honda they are coral reefs; south of it they are oolitic.

It is difficult to determine the total area of the islands, some of which are very irregular in shape. The total land area of all probably does not exceed 60 square miles; most of them do not rise more than 6 feet above sea level.

The most important products of the keys are limes, the juiciest and largest grown in Florida. The main occupations of the people have always been fishing, sponging, and farming.

At 44 m. (R) is SMITTY'S HOUSEBOAT, moored near the center of Card Sound Bridge, and at 44.7 m. (L) is PELICANS ROOST at the end of the bridge (boats and tackle available at both places).

KEY LARGO (Sp., long), the northernmost island (320 pop.), is about 30 miles long and at most 1 .5 miles wide. Its elevation is greater than that of the other islands in the chain, and it has perhaps the most fertile soil.

Left on this road to the northern shore, where is the ANGLERS' CLUB CAMP, 5.8 m., owned by a wealthy group. Offshore here is a group of three large and several small islands. These are not, however, the northernmost of the keys; the chain extends N. along the coast for 50 miles.

Among the islands immediately N. of Key Largo of which Old Rhodes, Elliott, and Sand Keys are the largest the point of chief interest is BLACK CAESAR'S ROCK (accessible only by boat), a tiny island between Old Rhodes and Elliott Islands.

This place was the stronghold and hiding place of Black Caesar, the gigantic chief of an African tribe, who had been captured by a slave trader; during a hurricane off the Florida coast Black Caesar, with a number of others, escaped and reached shore safely. He and his followers built a boat of the wreckage they found and became pirates. His tremendous strength and natural ferocity made him feared along the entire coast. Needing a place to lie in wait for prey and to make repairs on his boat, Black Caesar chose this island among the keys as his stronghold. To facilitate the removal of the barnacles from the bottom of his ship, Black Caesar had a large iron ring fastened in the coral rock off the western shore of the island. A block-and-fall was rigged to the masthead, the rope being reeved through another block hooked to the ring; the crew hauled on the rope until the vessel lay on her side. After one side had been scraped, the other was treated in the same manner. It is said that Black Caesar also used this method to screen his boat from view when there were pursuers, and to lie in wait for possible victims. The boat would be canted enough to hide the mast in the tree tops. When danger was past or when prey was near enough to be pounced upon, a slackening of the line would soon right the boat to an even keel.

When in time Blackbeard joined Black Caesar, the two became the terror of the region. Blackbeard added to his ferocious appearance by wearing a long black beard braided into many tails, which he looped over his ears. There is little doubt that when they boarded a vessel they seemed like devils from "a hell of their own," as Blackbeard himself boasted. Both pirates met violent deaths while plying their trade.

At this junction the appearance of the key begins to change. Here rolling hammock land contains tall growths of feathery-leaved wild tamarind, gumbo-limbo conspicuous by reason of its red bark, madeira, dogwood, crabwood, great bird fig, and sapodilla. Wild grapevines cover entire trees, often hiding the identity of the support. Day glories and moonvines are everywhere, and the shoulders of the highway are colored with wild flowers. There are few houses along the road, but trails lead through thick hammocks to the ocean and to farms and groves.

The rolling hammock land is soon left behind, and lime groves line the highway. Unkempt vegetation, left for windbreaks, makes it difficult for persons accustomed to the methodically planted citrus groves to recognize the groves as such. Here, on the upper keys, lime trees grow in leafmold and thin soil; farther S. where dirt becomes scarce the trees seem to flourish equally well in rock crevices. At 56.8 m. are MABLE'S PLAGE and KEY INN (lodging and meals).

KEY LARGO STATION, 59.1 m. (50 est. pop.), was formerly a station on the Florida East Coast Ry., which connected Key West with the mainland. This once-celebrated oversea section was built in 1911, the first train running over the route January 22, 1912. At Key West passenger cars were shunted on tracks of seagoing ferryboats, which carried them to Havana, 90 miles away; thus travelers could step into a Pullman in New York and step out of it in Cuba. Uninterrupted service was maintained from 1912 until September 2, 1935, when the great hurricane destroyed more than 40 miles of track. The F.E.C. Ry. decided against rebuilding the damaged tracks and roadbed, and discontinued service below Homestead, on the mainland. The dismantling of the line is now complete, the right-of-way having been acquired by the Florida State Road Dept. for this highway. The ferry service to Cuba is now carried on through Fort Lauderdale (see Section 24).

There is a large LIME PACKING HOUSE (R) near the old station. At 61.1 m. (L) is LARGO GARDEN, a refreshment stand built in a beautiful grove having many different kinds of plants. Coral boulders mark the shoulders of the road here.

ROCK HARBOR, 66 m. (12 alt., 131 est. pop.), is a tiny village with a 30-foot OBSERVATION TOWER (L) over its post office. The tower is a square stucco structure anchored by cables to bedrock; from its railed upper platform is a view of the Atlantic, Florida Bay, and the Gulf. Eastward is the ocean shore, where are racks for fish nets. All around the tiny settlement are extensive lime groves that bear through most of the year; to the W. is a mango grove. At 66.8 m. is MAG'S PLACE, where cabins, sea foods, gasoline, and boats are available. Sportsmen starting out to catch bonefish often buy supplies here.

TAVERNIER, 73.1 m. (10 alt., 91 est. pop.), takes its name from a stream that winds past the lower end of Key Largo. The French pronunciation of the word has been lost, the natives pronouncing it as though it rhymed with beer.

This waterway is supposed to have been a favorite hiding place for Tavernier, lieutenant of Jean La Fitte, the pirate who was, in 1814, promised 30,000 pounds sterling and a commission in the Royal Navy if he would assist the British operations against New Orleans. Instead La Fitte offered his information and aid to the Americans, whom he and his men served in the Battle of New Orleans. After he was pardoned by President Madison, La Fitte resumed his piracy near the present site of Galveston. When a naval expedition was sent against him for attacking American property, he sailed away. Neither his destination nor his fate is known.

Brought into existence as the southernmost railway stop on Key Largo, Tavernier was just a railroad station until O. M. Woods acquired holdings during the boom days, built a lumber shed, a movingpicture theater and other facilities. Few of the inhabitants live along the highway, but roads lead to homes along the shores.

At Tavernier are some of the storm-proof houses built along the keys by the American Red Cross and the F.E.R.A. Constructed entirely of reinforced concrete, these homes are anchored to bedrock; the massive effect is emphasized by heavy wooden storm shutters and the huge slabs of masonry that form the roofs.

At 73.7 m. is a CAMP on Tavernier Creek, where boats are available for fishing in the ocean or the bay.

At 73.8 m. is the northern end of PLANTATION KEY, named for pineapple and banana plantations that flourished in the past. This island was first settled by Bahamans who migrated from Key Vaca and Indian Key in search of farm land; from the 1870's until shortly after the beginning of the present century, it was a very prosperous area. From the road it looks almost uninhabited, but in reality there are many homes, hidden behind the hammocks.

Palms on the lower part of the key show many evidences of the 1 935 hurricane, the center of which cut a devastated path at this point. At 78.6 m. is SNAKE GREEK, scene of one of the major washouts of the '35 hurricane. The RAILROAD TRESTLE (R) was temporarily rebuilt after the storm for the removal of stranded railroad cars.

WINDLEY ISLAND, 78.9 m., was named for an old settler. At the foot of the bridge (L) is the CROOKED DOOR, a camp with boats for hire and bait for sale. Much fine-grained Windley Island coral rock has been used for interior trim in building construction. A broad expanse of low prairie (L) was the SITE OF THE WORLD WAR VETERANS CAMP NUMBER ONE, one of the three camps destroyed by the 1935 hurricane with many fatalities. A few yards down the road (R) are rock quarries, from which derricks lift huge blocks of coral limestone. The rock has a texture suitable for limited use in sculpture; when treated, it can be used for tiles.

At 80.1 m. is WHALE HARBOR. Across Whale Harbor extended another railway fill similar to that at Snake Creek, where today bent, twisted rails, swept 50 yards from their bed, are testimony to the hurricane's violence.

UPPER MATECUMBE KEY (Sp., bent bushes; pron. matty-cum'- bee), 81.6 m., is famous among fishermen. On the ocean front, tabbed without much originality by the sun-baked natives as "Millionaire's Row," are many attractive homes and private fishing lodges.

(10 alt., 180 est. pop.), stands in the interior of the key, with flat, scrub palm country surrounding it. It was through the efforts of Henry M. Flagler that the Matecumbe Keys became popular among sportsmen; this place was established by him as a station for the convenience of fishermen. A group of boatmen and skilled guides live near the former station.

At 84.5 m. is a ferry slip (gasoline, refreshments, and boats available). Left from the extreme southern shore of Upper Matecumbe is TEA TABLE KEY, 1 m. (accessible only by boat), so named because of its flat terrain. Between 1839 and 1840 it was used as one of several bases for naval vessels engaged in Seminole War operations.

Southwest of Tea Table Key and L. of the bridge is INDIAN KEY, 2 m. It is accessible only by water, but can be approached from all sides. This feature, combined with its fertile acreage, led to its use as a trading post from the time the first Spaniards bartered with the Indians.

The island, containing only 12 acres, was first settled by Capt. Jacob Houseman, of Staten Island, N.Y., as a base for wreckers. In 1838 Dr. Henry Perrine, a botanist of note, landed here with his family to experiment with the growing of tropical plants imported from Yucatan. On the morning of August 7, 1 840, the settlement was attacked by 200 Indians; Dr. Perrine and 12 others were killed. The Perrine family, whom the doctor had hidden in a turtle pen beneath the pier, and several others were finally rescued by a Government cutter. Today nothing remains of the settlement except a brick cistern and the gravestone of Captain Houseman.

When the Indian Key massacre was reported, Government troops were sent to quell the uprising. With the help of an escaped Negress who had been held in slavery by the Indians, the entire band of Galoosas with the exception of a few braves who were out hunting, was captured and sent to prison. Fearing revenge for having led the soldiers into the Everglades on the trail of the killers, the former Negro slave left her home and moved to Key West, where she lived to be more than 100 years old.

The inhabitants of the Matecumbe Keys have many superstitious beliefs. One is that sheepshead, a fish with large strong teeth, after feeding on barnacles of copper-sheathed wrecks, become poisonous, and that persons eating such fish die soon afterward.

In the Bay of Florida, 2 miles W. of the southern tip of Upper Matecumbe, is LIGNUM VITAE KEY, on which grows lignum vitae, a very heavy hardwood found nowhere else on the Florida Keys.

LOWER MATECUMBE, 87.9 m., is the site of two of the three World War veterans camps that were swept away by storm in 1935. At 92.3 m., conspicuously marked at the lower end of this island, is the FERRY SLIP, where automobiles trundle on ferries for the 14-mile crossing to Grassy Key. On these boats excellent meals are served, with turtle steak a favorite dish. The ferries follow a protected waterway, well inside the line of keys, and are never out of sight of the railway viaduct.

The name of GRASSY KEY, 105 m., southern terminus of the ferry, is said to have been derived from an old settler, not from the nature of its grassy growth. The island is two and a half miles long. CRAWL KEYS, 107.5 m., was named for the sponge and turtle pens, called crawls by the native fishermen. The word is believed to be a corruption of "corral" (stock pen).

Right from Crawl Keys is BAMBOO KEY, 1 in., a small irregularly shaped island that is supposed to have fewer mosquitoes than the other keys. This has been attributed to the presence of a parasitic plant, Cuscuta umbalata, that thrives on the island. Actually, however, the properties of this odoriferous plant as a mosquito eradicator have not been proved.

Left on this road to a large emergency landing field, 1 m., on land near the ocean shore.

KEY VACA (Sp., cow), 110.4 m., is thought to have been so named because of the cattle that roamed on it at one time.

At 117 m. on Key Vaca is the one-story SOMBRERO LODGE, a wellappointed hotel with five large wings.

The keys here were, in the middle of the last century, the scene of an unusual industry. The beche de mer, a sea-slug, was salted down for export to the Orient, where it is considered a delicacy. MARATHON, 118 m. (7 alt.), is the only settlement of any consequence on this key. A clubhouse owned by Miami sportsmen is recognized by its 30,000-gallon water tank.

South of Key Vaca is BOOT KEY HARBOR, graveyard of a number of boats used in constructing the railway, and sunk in these waters when their usefulness ended. In the collection of old craft is virtually every kind from side-wheeler to barge.

Visible from the ferry is what was once the longest railway bridge in the world crossing ocean waters PIGEON KEY VIADUCT, extending 7.6 miles between tiny Pigeon Key and Duck Key.

South of here the geology of the archipelago changes. From this point to Dry Tortugas all islands are of white oolite with a tangle of mangroves whose roots stabilize old islands and build new ones, simply by retaining the mud washed in by tides. These lower keys have a very scant covering of topsoil, and for that reason have not yet attracted farmers. It has been found, however, that lime trees will grow in the crevices of the limestone; tomatoes, okra, melons, and similar produce grow in the few inches of topsoil, accumulated bit by bit as the mangrove and buttonwood deposit their rich mold. Papayas grow wild here, bearing a small, sweet fruit.

NO NAME KEY, 132.1 m., is the western terminus of the ferry. The scenery on No Name Key, with pines and palmettos, suggests certain sections of northern Florida, but sapodilla trees are evidence of the subtropical climate.

At 132.2 m. (R) is No NAME LODGE, a fishing resort. BIG PINE KEY, 135 m., contains a grove of comparatively large Cuban pines at the place where topsoil is thickest. Cranes and herons are numerous.

At 136.2 m. is the junction with a hard-surfaced road. Left on this road to BIG PINE INN, 7 m., a quiet hotel with chicken dinners, rooms, and fishing boats.

BIG TORCH KEY, 137.6 m., was so named because of the quantity of torchwood on the island. This wood is so resinous that a torch made of it will burn twice as long as does one of pine.

At 139.6 m. is MIDDLE TORCH KEY. Here, in addition to torchwood, grows the soapberry tree. For years natives have used the soapberry for catching fish by hand. The seeds are crushed into a gelatinous mass in calm water, when they release a toxic substance that stupifies fish swimming near it. While the substance can be used for cleansing, it is not commonly utilized for that purpose. RAMROD KEY, 139.9 m., has a post office with a picturesque old muzzle-loading cannon.

SUMMERLAND KEY, 142.1 m., has excellent farm land. Extensive lime groves are cultivated here and many tropical fruits are raised for northern markets.

At CUDJOE (contraction of Cousin Joe) KEY, 144.3 m., pigeons are often seen flying over the road or feasting on the berries of the poison-wood tree. When bruised, the tree exudes a gum that blackens the trunk. It is one of the first to grow on cut-over and burnt hammock land.

SUGAR LOAF SOUND, off SUGAR LOAF KEY, 147.7 m., is the site of successful sponge-culture experiments. Here sponges are grown from cuttings and cultivated. The name of the key is derived from the sugar-loaf pineapple formerly cultivated on its soil. PIRATE'S COVE FISHING CAMP, 149.1 m., is one of the best known resorts on the lower keys. During the 1935 hurricane many of its buildings were demolished; the place has been rebuilt on a smaller scale with more secure construction.

SADDLEBUNCH KEY, 155.4 m., is an island attractive because of Gandolphe Creek, where mangroves are reflected in clear water. Mangrove and buttonwood line the road, with flat expanses beyond them.

TINY BIRD KEY, 160.2 m., is little more than a mangrove swamp, named for the sooty terns that abound under protection of the National Park Service.

GEIGER KEY, 160.6 m., is another of the small islands named for an early settler.

On BOCA CHIGA KEY (Sp., little mouth), 162.5 m., the smooth recently built highway is at times less than 75 ft. from the sea.

At 168.6 m. the highway forks, providing two routes leading into KEY WEST, 170.2 m. (6 alt., 12,831 pop.).

Airports. Miami-Key West Airways, at Yacht Basin, two blocks from center of city; taxi 25 per passenger; Pan-American, Roosevelt Blvd., 3 m., taxi 50jf.
Piers. Gulf side of island for P. & O. Steamers to Tampa & Havana.
Information Service. Hospitality House, Elks Lodge Bldg., Duval St.; House Dept., W.P.A. Bldg., Eton St.

Key West, seat of Monroe Go., and the southernmost city of the United States, covers an entire subtropical coral island, one mile wide and half a mile long. Coco-palms flourish, and Spanish limes, dates, pomegranates, and sapodillas grow wild. The place was called Cayo Hueso (bone key) by Spanish explorers as early as the 16th century because many human bones were found here. The island was granted, in 1815, by Ferdinand VII to Don Juan Pablo Salas as a reward for military service. It was not settled until 1822, when it became a naval base of the United States.

About half the inhabitants are descendants of white people of British birth who came here from Virginia, New England, and the West Indies; about one-quarter are descendants of Cubans and Spaniards; and roughly one-sixth are Negroes who have lived or whose parents lived in Bahama or the West Indies. The population is bilingual, speaking both Spanish and English.

The earliest businessmen of the island were pirates; the first legal business to develop was wreck salvaging. So many ships were wrecked on the nearby reefs and so rich were the cargoes that, in 1 846, a time of unusually severe storms, $1,600,000 worth of shipwrecked property was brought in. The establishment of the lighthouses gradually ruined this source of income. Some return of prosperity came during the Civil War when naval activity increased. After the beginning of the Cuban revolution in 1868 Cubans, many of them cigar makers, came to Key West; in 1874 a modern cigar factory was established, becoming the nucleus of an industry that gave the city its next wave of prosperity.

Sponge fishing also became important. In time labor troubles in the cigar industry increased, and by 1906 the business began to move away to Gulf coast cities. In the meantime the place had begun to lose its importance as a supply station for coal-burning ships. The opening of the Florida East Coast Ry. in 1912 gave another economic reprieve, but the effect was only temporary as practically all the cigar factories had left and the sponge-fishing industry had declined. Another blow came in 1925 when the Federal Government reduced the size of the army base; in 1932 the naval base became inactive and the Coast Guard headquarters was transferred to St. Petersburg. The city is the locale of Ernest Hemingway's novel, To Have and Have Not. In 1934 the Governor of the State placed the affairs of the county in the hands of the F.E.R.A., which began the rehabilitation of the city by developing it as a winter resort. The whole place was cleaned up; streets and promenades were landscaped, modern facilities were installed, new buildings were erected, and charming old ones were repaired. A yacht basin and other tourist attractions were developed. During the first resort season more than 35,000 visitors arrived, about 3,000 remaining throughout the winter.

The SPONGE DOCK, foot of Grinnell St., is one of the busiest spots on the island. The auction here is worth seeing.

In the TURTLE CRAWLS, N. end of Margaret St., are often seen specimens hundreds of years old and weighing several hundred pounds. Boats that come to the adjacent dock frequently bring in large jewfish, sharks, and the like. Near the crawls are a canning plant and a turtle-soup factory. The butchering takes place shortly after noon nearly every day.

In the OPEN-AIR AQUARIUM, foot of Whitehead St., are many brilliantly colored tropical fishes.

FORT TAYLOR, entered from Angela St., has played an important part in the history of the city since its foundations were laid in 1845. The ERNEST HEMINGWAY RESIDENCE (private), corner of Olivia and Whitehead Sts., was built shortly after the Civil War.

From KEY WEST LIGHTHOUSE (open dawn to sunset), corner of Whitehead and Division Sts., is an exceptional view of this and nearby islands. Aviaries on the grounds hold hundreds of tropical birds.

The BAHAMA HOUSES stand close together, the Bartlum residence on Eaton Street and the Roberts home on Williams Street. The former was first built on Green Turtle Key, Bahama Islands, by Capt. Joe Bartlum in the early part of the 19th century; when the family in the early thirties decided to move here, the house was taken apart, loaded aboard a schooner, and rebuilt on its present site. The Roberts place was likewise brought from the Bahamas. These houses are constructed entirely of white pine and, though unpretentious, have a simple dignity and an air of comfort. They differ from most Key West buildings in having low ceilings, but are like them in having delicate balustrades on the porches and large shuttered openings

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